[CamZ]

I like where your head is. That’s an interesting thought. As far as burping, that’s not really a great idea because you want the breakdown of chlorophyll to occur. When you are burping, you release gasses produced during this process.

An example where this would be useful is for long term storage. Say you get a perfect cure. You could fill your jars with nitrogen to prevent further oxidation of canabanoids and essentially lock them in at the perfect ripeness. To do this properly you’d have to pull a vaccum first and then fill with pure nitrogen. Seems like a tremendous amount of work, but doable.

[CamZ]

I don’t think it’s impatience. The leaves are droopy in the picture, so there is certainly something going on. Glad to hear it’s still growing.

[CamZ]

My apologies. I was caught up doing a massive home renovation project. I am currently using Masterblend 0-12-24, which was discontinued for another mix ratio with less epsom salt due to water retention. I would suggest jacks 0-12-26 as a substitute. For nitrogen and calcium you can use pretty much any form of calcium nitrate. If you want mixing ratios then look up green gene masterblend 0-12-24.

I will admit this is advanced because you are creating your own npk ratios, so be warned. If you don’t understand it then I would stay away from it. This basically follows Athena formulation, but with waaaaay less cost.

Regarding the powders, yes, humic is cheap. I have never heard of dry fulvic though. What color is it?

[CamZ]

It is very unlikely. Most nitrogen fixing plants need to decompose before any noticeable increase in N can occur.

[CamZ]

Check trichomes.

[CamZ]

Your plan sounds solid to me. Probably start with half strength minimum for flower though.

[CamZ]

Plant looks overwatered. It will pop back if that’s your issue, but it will take longer than is ideal. Seedlings need very very small amounts of water.

[CamZ]

Stress could cause a variation, but it’s more likely just genetic variation. They are an F1 so there will be some variation in there, more in f2 and f3 begins true stabilization.

I wouldn’t add anything this late. I’d agree on a week or 2. Just keep checking the trichomes. If the trichomes don’t amber after 2 weeks they just may not. Again, that’s a genetic variation.

[CamZ]

I may be incorrect, but I don’t think VPD was as popular when he wrote that as it is today. I do know that he doesn’t typically chase VPD. He focuses more on humidity and temp, so that’s probably why.

[CamZ]

Kudos to the work you are putting in. Sounds like you did a tremendous amount of work.

[CamZ]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Amazing. Glad they are doing well!</p>

[CamZ]

I started with the inkbirds. Upgrading to controller 69 and associated equipment is the cheapest(still expensive) option I’m aware of.

[CamZ]

I believe the L form is the only avaliable form if I remember correctly.

[CamZ]

15 minutes probably wouldn’t be sufficient air exchange per hour unless you were running it 1 minute at full blast every 5 minutes. The op wasn’t asking about smell though. Some people don’t care about that aspect of growing.

[CamZ]

I moved your response because it was starting to get off topic from the ops questions.

It is normal for fan leaves to fade and turn yellow or even purple when the plant is canabilizing its own tissues when nutrient levels drop. The sugar leaves should not be turning yellow though.

Removing leaves for greater airflow and light penetration is entirely different than having leaf burning. The leaf serrations and tips of every leaf I saw in his pictures were brown, even curling upward, which is a sign of nutrient burn, light burn, or a severe ph problem.

[Author]

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