[CamZ]

Happy to help! Don’t forget the to use his promo code at checkout if you order from their site. I believe it’s Mrgrowit15.

[CamZ]

Beware bold claims. Third party testing is king. There is no product verification in this space. Chelating agents are great, but a simple fulvic/humic acid will do the same work. Does this product have any backing for these claims?

[CamZ]

Rockwool isn’t the most economic choice, but believe it or not, it’s very good at controlling root moisture. You might want to inspect your conditions and clean. Sorry you lost such expensive genetics. Consider a root inoculant in the future to help mitigate this issue if you haven’t already.

[CamZ]

You could add a plug adapter that aci sells to control the light on and off. No intensity control through the controller though. An analog controller would cost less, but an aci controlled plug would remember lights on and off times in the event of a power outage.

 

https://acinfinity.com/hydroponics-growers/controllers/smart-uis-controllers/uis-control-plug-for-outlet-powered-equipment/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxOauBhCaARIsAEbUSQSyMZJxx0oQiREamRfedfLf6z52YzjPwHuItzVSiKmMcsSxVzWAU-oaAlW9EALw_wcB#product-description

[CamZ]

Post the link in a new forum post when it’s finished. I would love to see it.

[CamZ]

I highly suggest you check out green genes garden channel. His older videos are particularly helpful in understanding ppms for hydroponics. Sadly, not even he grows rdwc, but it can give you a better understanding of the process as a whole. Aside from telling you what I grow with and why, I can’t give you information specific to your situation because I didn’t design and am unfamiliar with your system. What I can tell you is that the reservoir application does not apply to number of plants, however, the ml per gallon reccomendation for nutrients is generally based off of drain to waste style gardening. For instance, 5ml per gallon of calmag is something you might want to run in coco, but you may run the lowest dose in rdwc.

1. A cheat rule to understanding feeding in rdwc looks like this; measure out 5 gallons of ro or low ppm water.
2. Note your initial ppm/ec.
3. Add silica first always and do so at full strength, then calmag, then your base nutrient followed by additives if you run them.
4. Add a full dose of each item as if you only had 2 gallons of water instead of 5.
5. Measure ppm/ec and ph in your 5 gallon bucket.
6. If less than your ideal range, add 1 more gallons worth of nutrients. If more, add water.

Once you have your initial ratio of water to nutrients figured out, divide your system volume by 5. Then next time you can add your water and add each item with its own 5 gallon bucket to prevent lockout problems. (For instance, 1st 5 gallon bucket you add all your silica, 2nd bucket has all the calmag, 3rd has base, 4th bucket additives.) Technically, you should mix every bucket as you go, but I have never had an issue doing it this way and it’s much faster. Just make sure you allow time for the salts to enter solution.</p>

1. .4-.8 for early veg, .8-1.2 late veg, 1.2-1.6 for the remainder of flower. Generally 1.2 during stretch to limit node spacing and jump to 1.6 after week 3 to force more calyx growth. 5.8 ph is ideal in veg and 6.3 is best for flower, but anywhere between 5.5 and 6.5 is acceptable. Try to chase ph as little as possible.
2. If your system is dialed in right then you can use the same water until ph starts to tank. I can typically go 3 to 4 weeks before encountering this issue, though your experience may vary. Generally, you will end up with an imbalance of nutrients at some point, typically excess sulfur, and that will start to make it hard to keep ph up. At this point, change your water. Again, the suggested practice is changing water every 7-10 days, but if you know what you are doing and understand some of the basic science on nutrient interaction you can go much longer.
3. When it’s time to top off the res you read the ec and ph of your res. If your ec is high, add water only, if it’s low, add a stronger mix to hit your range. The longer you do it, the easier it gets to hit your target.

I hope this helps.

Regarding the amount of water. You add water until it reaches the bottom of your net pot until you get roots in the water and then allow the level to drop to an inch below the net pot. If using litres vs gallon, convert everything i said to litres and follow the same process.

[CamZ]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Ph problems normally cause interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between leaf veins). That appears to be a nitrogen deficiency. Is that from the bottom of the plant?</p>

[CamZ]

Based on your pictures and the fact that you said all trichomes are cloudy, I would guess you are within the 2 week window from harvest. I would cut nutrients entirely at this point and do a minor flush to try and get rid of some of that nitrogen. The nitrogen is what will really make your plants harsh. Excess nitrogen will create an overabundance of chlorophyll, leading to harsh smoke. That might be light burn, but the pattern doesn’t seem right to me. The very top of the one plant may have experienced a bit of light stress based on the foxtailing and yellow sugar leaves, but the lower fans are likely another issue. It sounds like you aren’t using nutrients, just a premix. Correct?

[CamZ]

You have a couple issues I can see from the pictures. You are right, there are some nutrient issues. You have nitrogen toxcicity and a potassium deficiency or a lockout. Is there any other info you can give? Ppm? Nutrients? Anything of the sort.

It’s hard to give advice on so little info.

[CamZ]

Happy to help man. I’m a bit of a info junky myself.

[CamZ]

My apologies. The concentration was .02 and .05 and the durations were 6, 12, and 24 hours.

A study on natural occurrence.

https://www.mdpi.com/2223-7747/12/23/3927

Detailed information on hops, a close cousin.

https://iung.pl/PJA/wydane/34/PJA34str3_10.pdf

A study on hemp.

https://journals.ashs.org/hortsci/view/journals/hortsci/55/10/article-p1703.xml

 

[CamZ]

Aside from Mr Grow It, I don’t think anyone will have more knowledge on the subject on the forum. In regards to the spray solution, I know the spray solution is very low for colchicine. I believe it is 3% for 24 hours or 5% at 12 hours if I recall the study correctly. I do not suggest anyone mess with this outside of a clinical setup because it is not only toxic to plants, it is dangerous to humans as well. It causes irregular cellular development, which is why it’s used to create polyployds. There are several studies avaliable for review if anyone wants to read them. I believe the clinical research is your best bet at acquiring that information, particularly due to its strict adherence to procedural safety.

[CamZ]

If you’re whole plant hanging then hang them upside down from the main stem. Make sure the inside of the tent is cleaned out. Have a way to control humidity and temperature. Exhaust air periodically. No direct airflow on the plants after chop but keep a small fan on the floor. Don’t leave anything inside the tent with the plants (pots, water, drip pans, etc.). Slow dry conditions are best. It’s better to chase humidity over temperature as long as your temp is between 60-72ish. Old-school rule of thumb is 60-60. Better dry would look more like 67f first 2-3 days and 58-60rh. Drop temp near 62 or 63 after that and maintain 60-62. You want to aim for 10 days to 2 weeks from start to finish. Don’t procrastinate on trimming after that or you will probably overdry. It’s going to be more work than you expect, so expect that lol. Jars, grove bags, or a bud vault are best for storage. Burping is necessary in all choices. Keep an eye for budrot while you trim. Stem snapping isn’t always accurate. Don’t overdry or you will waste all your hardworking. Better to place in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid while trimming to let all buds equalize in humidity before placing in sealed container. You can throw a humidity sensor in there to get an idea of moisture content before jarring.

Most importantly, don’t dry to quick, if you think they are dry enough but not sure, cut a branch and trim some buds. Place those buds in a jar with a humidity sensor and seal it for a couple hours. You want to see 60-64 ideally. If you see lower then you overdried. If it’s higher then give it a bit longer.

Good luck.

[CamZ]

It’s not required but can be beneficial. If you have 10-15 to buy great white or something then go for it. If not, don’t.

[CamZ]

Negative. It is a plant with an extra chromosome created by crossing a polyployd to a regular plant. Polyployds can occur naturally but in breeding it is typically forced by treating seedlings with a drug used to treat gout funny enough. The resulting seeds are sterile do to this extra chromosome, yet they have the potential to create unique cultivars because of these extra gene expressions.

[Author]

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