[CamZ]

What are the dimensions of your 5 gallons at the top of the pot?

[CamZ]

I mean, the theory is interesting but it doesn’t pan out. I believe the result of allowing sparkling water to sit out creates carbonic acid. Acid+leaves don’t mix.

[CamZ]

Not a chance. Don’t even think that would fit dimensionally much less trying to train and water that.

[CamZ]

Looks like you have nitrogen toxcicity. Dark shiny leaves and “clawing” are signs of excess nitrogen. Molasses has a decent amount of nitrogen in it and isn’t meant to be used more than 1 or 2 times per grow. Not sure what else is in your mix but I would cut that out and consider a partial flush.

Be sure it’s dark green and shiny though. Purple pigmentation is normal in some cultivars from exposure to intense light. Either way, new research suggests that the production of anthocyanin(purple pigment) directly competes with canabanoids for resources. Not exactly a good thing.

[CamZ]

I imagine there would be a marginal benefit. A better plan would be getting some fulvic acid and beneficials to the roots to stimulate root growth. Anything that can facilitate root expansion early in life will boost plant growth and vigor.

[CamZ]

Welcome. I have grown f1 and f3s and they both grow with very tight nodes. I would call it a moderate feeder. One of the things I particularly love about the strain is how easy it is to grow. It requires very little effort and isn’t very particular. For training I would have to say that it would be most beneficial to trellis it out as flat as possible and allow the abundant nodes proper airflow and direct light. One last note is that it can be an early finishing strain. Keep an eye on the trichomes at the end of week 6 going into week 7. Congrats on the new house btw!

[CamZ]

Mg deficiency typically shows between leaf veins. It’s typical sign is interveinal chlorosis.

[CamZ]

Any update on the grow?

[CamZ]

I use an ACI humidifier and so does Chris. I use ro water in it without issue. I’m about 95% sure he does the same thing. What issue are you having? Have you reached out to their customer support?

My only issue with them is that they shouldn’t have made the reservoir clear. I took mine off and spray painted it with several layers of flat black paint on the outside, which I think looks much better and prevents algea from growing in the tank. I’m not a fan of misting algea everywhere.

One other issue I noticed early on was that the fan on the bottom works better to push the mist around if you place the humidifier on something hard and flat. The tent mylar on the bottom of tents can block the flow of the fan and prevents it from working properly. The mist just barely comes out when the fan is blocked and I suspect it may be a failure point.

Lastly, ultrasoinc humidifiers use a consumable ceramic disc to create the mist. They can eventually go bad.

[CamZ]

That’s a whole lot of space. I wish you luck.

[CamZ]

For an organic grow with actual soil it can be difficult to ascertain the actual ppms in your medium. I would use that information as a guideline rather than fact. If you subtract your input water ppm from that number it should give you a relatively close number to the ppms in your soil, but an ec meter measures electrical conductivity. Things that aren’t necessarily plant food can alter readings.

They make tests to tell you your npk levels in a relative sense. Either that or a soil test is going to be your best bet at balancing for the next grow. That’s really extreme though. Most people just mix in a top blend and fire off new seeds.

Whatever route you go, congrats on finishing the grow! Hope you stay active on the forum.

[CamZ]

I dont know how you germinate in paper towels, but here is how I pop every seed I ever grow. I wet a paper towel and then squeeze out about 80% of the water. Place seeds in that and then fold it over several times so the seed is layers deep. Place that folded paper towel in a sandwich bag and seal it. Place it somewhere room temperature and check it after 2 days. I usually have about 90% success. I only run into issues when the seeds are not viable.

[CamZ]

Awesome! I’m getting ready to flower an f3 here before too long.

[CamZ]

Looks healthy. I wouldn’t say anything is “wrong.” It just looks like an odd leaf mutation. It will probably produce normal growth after that node. Occasionally there is an issue with shoot development that will cause a plant to “top” itself. Growth looks healthy. Just give it time.

[CamZ]

You really want to get below 87f. That’s the highest you want to see before there is real stress involved. I’m guessing you are running hps or cmh since you said bulb. Best you can do in that aspect is get an led. Aside from that, you can remove the driver/balast from the tent and put it on the outside. They also sell venting hoods for hps that help remove excess heat. Personally I wouldn’t invest in one unless you have no other option. Lastly, try opening up the ventilation socks on your tent if you’re in veg. You can move the tent closer to the split unit. Another important factor is humidity. If your humidity in the tent is too low then the air can’t “grab” the heat to remove it. Water vapor absorbs heat. Getting the humidity to proper levels for your stage of growth can lower temperature significantly.  If you are in flower then you can add a 4inch flex duct to one of the holes and cover the end with a cloth to block light.

For clones, you can feed them every watering with synthetics (I assume that’s what you have). Make sure you aren’t mixing the ppms to strong though. If you see signs of toxcicity then give them plain water next time and then resume feeding at a lower ppm/ec.

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