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CamZModerator
Exactly right.
CamZModeratorChris announces drops on the forum sometimes. You can get them when he makes a drop.
CamZModeratorLooks like a killer grow. Thanks for sharing. The uniformity is impressive.
CamZModeratorYes it would work but not as well as tomatoes. Tomatoes are notorious for rooting very well. You could do this with cannabis but you could also rot the stem in some instances. If your medium is the correct moisture content then it 100% can work. I would pinch off all leaves and branching before burying the stem and give them a few days to dry up and close the wounds first. If the plant senses no foliage on that portion of the stem it will be more likely to root because it’s not sending mixed hormonal signals telling it to both root and grow shoots.
CamZModeratorThat does look like an early top. I like to top like that, when the new node is still developing because it’s a very small amount of stress. It’s harder to do and you can actually mess up like 3 nodes instead of 1 if you do it wrong. Sometimes that happens naturally through defect also.
CamZModeratorThose are all high nitrogen. Sounds like a very good fertilizer to me. I wouldn’t use it for a tea. That much nitrogen will attract everything, both good and bad.
CamZModeratorYep 40-60 ppm is what current science says. That’s based on the 500 scale.
CamZModeratorGeneral rule of thumb is that most animals that don’t eat meat have suitable droppings to be used for fertilizer. Just remember, what goes in, must come out. Whatever your bunny eats will make up the composition of your fertilizer. Alfalfa is pretty great as an ammendment. Rabbits who process that make it more bioavalible. I have no idea what the ratio is but I would base it off what they eat. For instance, if it’s a half cup of alfalfa pellets, look up the feed ratio for that and so on.
They eat foods high in nitrogen and anything processed by an animal has phosphorus as a byproduct, less so for ruminate, which rabbits are not. So you’ll need to add in potassium to hit the big 3. There will be little risk of burning because rabbit pellets aren’t “hot.”
You could even take it a step further and use it to make wormcastings and have something truly magical.
CamZModeratorDidn’t realize the twitch stream would show in a screenshot lol. That’s a review off Amazon. Seems like other people have had problems with mag deficiency too. That product is more of a slow release, which isn’t really what you want for calmag. If your mix is right then you won’t need calmag anyway. Calmag is more for correcting immediate issues or buffering ro water in hydro imo.
Yeah, some of the interveinal color should return in the next few days but not all of it.
Yes, I think you’re on the money with the ratio change. It’s not getting the mag or needs more. Don’t think it’s a lockout but keep an eye out for other strange leaf issues just incase.
CamZModeratorThat’s interesting about your calmag. I was under the impression calcium and magnesium were hard to get in the same solution without the attached nitrate. From my understanding, most of the things they were bonded to would trade electrons and fall out of solution. May I ask what you use?
I am assuming you are starting with very low ppm water? I just checked 1 tsp (not tbsp) gave me around a .95 ec on my calibrated Apera pen. That’s less than 500ppm, which may seem like a lot still but you are correcting a deficiency and an imbalance. Certainly do whatever makes you feel safest. I wouldn’t use less than a half a tsp though. It’s not like the plant is going to use all of it at once. You are just getting it in the medium, but I understand your apprehension.
1/8 tsp is around .01 ec or 50ppm. The target for normal mag range is 40-60ppm for cannabis. That’s like how much should be in your mix if you were feeding synthetic every watering.
Hope that helps.
CamZModeratorThe answer to the defoliation question is it depends. It depends on the sexual stability of that strain. If you have any doubt about its ability to handle stress then don’t. If it does handle stress well them you should be fine to remove the lower growth, just don’t get carried away.
CamZModeratorCalcium and magnesium are antagonistic despite the fact that they are often applied together. You should 100% hit them with epsom salt only. A foliar could help them immediatly but doesn’t fix the imbalance. Try mixing in 1 tsp per gallon your next watering and give it 2-3 days. If you’re doing a foliar then rule of thumb is quarter strength. Don’t go overboard with the epsom salt though. I wouldn’t do more than 2 successive watering with epsom salt. You have probably been exacerbating the nitrogen tox a bit by using calmag, which is calcium nitrate. I’m about 95% certain you’ll see the issue clear up after the epsom salt. Try bumping ppfd up to 300 too so you can get some juice moving through the leaves. In this case I think it will benefit you more than leaving them turned down. 300 is still way on the safe side.
CamZModeratorI agree with Rama. You shouldn’t need to get over 65 unless it’s for seedlings. The plant can’t respire at 80. If it’s for seedlings then use a humidity dome.
CamZModeratorEither regular or fems will work for a mother plant. Triploids can also work but have the potential of being more difficult to get clones to root.
I think reflux might be confused about the meaning of triploids. A triploid plant has an extra chromosome, which makes it infertile, but also has the potential to exhibit more interesting characteristics.
If I were you I’d pick fems from a reliable breeder. Just my opinion though.
CamZModeratorEven though a leaf is yellow the vacuoles are not depleted. In my opinion, the yellow leaves are left on to allow the plants to draw on the reserves in those leaves to prevent yellowing of the buds. Another key reason is that the plants have to close wounds up when you pluck leaves and still create stress hormones related to being “fed” on. Creating weakness can allow pathogens to take hold. Plants are basically 85 year olds at this point. Anything could take them out. Truly dead leaves shrivel and die. The plant simply blocks the sap flow through the leaf when it has finished with it. For many people it is just a sign that the plant is ready for harvest and looks pretty.
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