[CamZ]

I know it’s a lot lol. It’s here if you ever need to look back at it. Happy to help.

[CamZ]

My apologies. I think I got too scientific in my wording. I did address your question in the very last sentence of my first paragraph. Terpenes=smells. Canabanoids=thc, cbd, cbn, etc. Flavanoids=taste.

The mechanism by which bacteria and fungi produce these secondary metabolites is through a symbiotic relationship with the plants via the roots. Though some bacteria establish a physical connection with the roots, most bacteria benefit plants by living and dieing in the soil. They eat compounds that plants can’t use and excrete compounds they can use. Some bacteria live in and on the roots and exchange nutrients for sugars from the plant. They also help in regulating soil ph in the root zone and can clean excessive nutrient salts from the soil.

Endomycorrhizal fungi works by establishing a physical connection to the plant roots by piercing them and essentially creating a larger root base. Fungi create this web like structure called mycorizea, which transports nutrients to and from the plant in exchange for nutrients, primarily in the form of sugars.

Fungi and bacteria can increase the metabolism, immune system, and root structure of a plant significantly. Fungi also helps plants deal with stresses like drought, and in nature can send signals from one plant to another to help them adapt to stress events.

Plants exposed to beneficial bacteria and fungi have been consistently been shown to be more resilient to stress and disease. Because of their increased health, these plants produce more secondary metabolites (terpenes, canabanoids, flavanoids). These secondary metabolites help do things like repel unwanted pests, protect the plant from harmful uv rays, and attract beneficial insects and animals necessary to the procreation of the given plant. Lucky for us, these are all things we find desirable. Though it is possible to grow plants without them, plants produce more high quality material with them. Additionally, these plants are less prone to infection from pathogenic fungi and bacteria through exclusion (essentially the pathogen is unable to become established because it gets outcompeted).

It is best to introduce them as early in the plants life as possible, but feeding a sugar solution once per grow can help swell populations of both to optimum levels.

[CamZ]

I think I can point you towards what you are actually looking for. It sounds like you might be interested in doing a molasses tea, though most people do it for the wrong reason. I’m sure you are aware that plants don’t eat sugars, they make them. What molasses does have is low levels of nutrients and sugar to feed microbial activity. By boosting microbes in your medium in mid-late flower, you facilitate the production of more secondary metabolites in the plant. Secondary metabolites are the things we want, like terpenes, canabanoids, and flavonoids.

There is a point of excess here though so I would really only suggest doing this once per run. Molasses does have some nitrogen in it as well, so do a bit of independent study to determine if this is right for you. You could also sub out molasses for coconut nectar instead and avoid most of the nitrogen, but you’d also lose the potassium, which is a key component in the maturation of bbuds. If you do end up going this route then you will need a source of good bacteria and fungi. You could use a small amount of something like Stash Blend for that or go with something more nutritionally inert like Great White or Orca. Good luck! Hope this helps.

[CamZ]

Coconut water has a bunch of salts in it. Not really good for that purpose. You could actually do more harm than good.

[CamZ]

I don’t see any pistils in the photo. Are you certain that’s not a male?

[CamZ]

They look great! I wouldn’t ammend anymore personally. I’m not sure if you mean amending for the next run or for the end of flower. Can you clarify?

[CamZ]

That’s a female. You are looking at a gynoecium.

[CamZ]

I’m thinking the genetics are only partially auto. Could be a potential reveg issue. Did you alter the lights at all during the run?

[CamZ]

I suggest you tie a string near the top and tie the other side to the tent pole and pull it over as far as it will go. It won’t be flat but, I believe you could reduce its height by about half. Might need to put the fan on the other pole.

[CamZ]

I think you need to do a runoff test. It looks like you have a lockout from something. Usually when you see that many different problems at the same time there is too much fertilizer in the soil. People mistakenly think they are seeing a deficiency and add even more fertilizer (that includes calcium and magnesium, which usually has iron as well). I am inclined to believe this even more since you said you are on the max dose and your light distance seems a bit far imo. I think the max rate for the grow dots is your problem. Unfortunatly, since they are partially slow release, there is no real way to remove that completely. Best advice I can give is to come back with a runoff ppm and ph. If your numbers are very high then remove as much of the grow dots as you can, flush the soil with water until readings are consistent and then perhaps add 1 tbsp per gallon rather than 3.

[CamZ]

A picture would be helpful. I have lst’d my tops well into week 5 before. I personally believe that a clean topping can sometimes be less stress to the plant. It is easier to heal a small wound than reorient an entire branch. If you are able I would consider attaching a string to the main stem and the cola and trying to pull it to the side at a 45 degree angle. That should give you a small amount of room. Again, a picture would help me understand better. Also, you still have 1-2 weeks of stretch most likely.

[CamZ]

@rama777 the hope is that you’ll have the knowledge and spread it, creating less work overall. 😉

[CamZ]

I don’t combust my flower either. If you aim to use this primarily for vaping with a traditional vaporizer then I suggest continuing to use the 62% packs, as they tend to help create that “I’m not just breathing air” affect you get from vaping. It helps make a fuller hit I suppose I should say.

I could be wrong, but I don’t think Chris was telling you to get the 58% packs. I believe he was telling you to add boveda packs into the jars below that threshold. In reality, anywhere between 58-62% is ideal. Below this the bud can’t cure properly. What you are doing when you add the humidity packs in is allowing more moisture to facilitate a longer enzymatic breakdown of the organic compounds within the buds. The end result is a smoother smoke.

The 58 or 62 thing is a preference, similar to wet trimming or dry trimming. Some swear by one, some swear by the other. In my personal experience, as a vape enthusiast, I suggest 62%, but it is merely a suggestion.

Now, if you plan to press the flower for dabs in an erig-style vape then I tend more to the 58%. You also want to press right after cure. The longer you wait, the darker your rosin will be, but too early and it will literally be green.

[CamZ]

When you see a dip in humidity in the jar of 1-2% below 62% when the jar is closed.

[CamZ]

We are going to need the details of the grow before anyone can assist you. Not even sure where you are in the grow process based on your post.

[Author]

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