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  • #3084

    What strain is it?

    critical + 2.0 auto

    northern lights xxl auto

    red gorilla girl xxl auto

    Is it in Veg or Flower stage? (Flower)

    If in Flower stage, For how long?

    9 weeks from germination, week 2 of flower
    Indoor or outdoor? Indoor
    Soil, Soilless or Hydro? Soul – ocean forest
    If soil/soilless, what size pot? 5 gallon
    Size of grow space (LxWxH)? 4×4
    Make and model of grow light? Spider farmer g4500
    Light distance from the top of the plants? 24” 950 average ppfd
    Temperature in the environment? 72-75 average
    Humidity in the environment? 50%
    PH of medium or reservoir? Measuring tomorrow, will follow up. Water always is PH’d to 6.5.
    EC/PPM of medium or reservoir? 900
    Any Pests? No
    How often are you watering? Every two to three days. Check daily. Ensure medium dries to point just before plant would begin to typically wilt.
    Type and strength of nutrients used? Grow dots, 3 tablespoons (high dosage measurement) 5 gallon pot. Using recharge as recommended every other watering. Add hydro guard to every watering to protect root health and growth. Adding tps silica once every 3rd watering








    Starting to get discoloration across entire canopy affecting all plants.





    Also I’m using RO water. Added calmag in last water. Will add again in next to see what happens. Looks like possibly calcium and magnesium/manganese deficiency. Plant on far right may need nitrogen and calmag because of the stretch this far into flower with grow dots nitrogen pretty much most likely depleted? was thinking of making a foliage spray tomorrow to see if it can assist with the issue. Thinking of the timeline and the transition of the grow dots and me using RO water I’m having a deficiency and not a lockout or burn.


    Also seems like zink deficiency from the looks of the whacky new growth on the bud sites. But it’s not yellowing so not sure.


    I’m not an expert at growing cannabis but I am an organic field farmer. A product I like is called Biomin. It has a touch of nitrogen. The calcium is mineral derived. It’s not readily available but it is very microbial active and shows results quickly enough. So basically the microbes on the leaf surfaces will consume the minerals and poop them out to become available to the plants. Truthfully though it’s best to use that at the very beginning of deficiency symptoms and then once every 4 days or so until it clears up.

    They also make a magnesium product, as well as a trace minerals.

    A word of caution about calcium chloride foliar sprays if that’s your source. They act fast, but they can have an inhibitory effect on nitrogen and phosphorous. If you use calcium chloride, definitely use less than recommended or you may see other issues arise!!

    If you do hit them with a fast acting calcium, I definitely recommend a follow up foliar a few days later with something that has fulvic acids to counteract the suppressive qualities of fast acting calcium based products.

    But again I’m not a cannabis expert and I’m not sure how reasonable it is to use foliar sprays on flowering plants, or how best to address leftover residues in the absence of rain. The products I mentioned are not toxic, but I’m not sure about potential corruption of flower flavor.


    Or maybe long story short, if I were in your position and knowing what I know about some fast acting foliars, I’d probably add what I need directly to the roots. That’s certainly what I would do for my crops but foliar feeding is a lot more simple than getting nutrients into the roots when you have a million beds and crops to manage.


    I think you need to do a runoff test. It looks like you have a lockout from something. Usually when you see that many different problems at the same time there is too much fertilizer in the soil. People mistakenly think they are seeing a deficiency and add even more fertilizer (that includes calcium and magnesium, which usually has iron as well). I am inclined to believe this even more since you said you are on the max dose and your light distance seems a bit far imo. I think the max rate for the grow dots is your problem. Unfortunatly, since they are partially slow release, there is no real way to remove that completely. Best advice I can give is to come back with a runoff ppm and ph. If your numbers are very high then remove as much of the grow dots as you can, flush the soil with water until readings are consistent and then perhaps add 1 tbsp per gallon rather than 3.


    Is the 900PPM what you are putting into the medium each feeding or is that the runoff measurement? I completely agree with @CamZ reply above.

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