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CamZModerator
Just buy a thermostat controlled plug and put it in your tent hooked to a small heater. It probably won’t run much with lights on. You’d be surprised how much a grow can warm up your garage even without a heater. You don’t need too much air exchange early in the grow so just set your ventilation fan to come on over like 77f. Once the plants get bigger you’ll probably need to set your tent up to vent more often, or you could just buy a co2 tank and not worry about air exchange and just work on humidity management.
CamZModeratorCheck out the vpd chart for optimal growth conditions. I don’t suggest an rh over 50 after week 5 of flower but do some reading and see what you think.
CamZModerator1740 is exceptionally high for plants that size. You shouldn’t need an amended soil and nutrients yet. You shouldn’t need to start adding liquid fertilizer until around 30 days after planting in that soil mix. I would suggest you only water with plain water for the time being. Just my 2 cents.
CamZModerator<p style=”text-align: left;”>Brown bag seed co is good too. Just scooped some robinhood seeds from black dog as well. Black dog had pretty good prices too surprisingly.</p>
CamZModeratorLooks like the trichomes are already cloudy from the photo. Just keep checking the trichomes until you see about 60% of them have turned amber. I would guess 2-3 weeks for that, but I can’t say that with 100% certainty because it’s all genetic dependent. No, they will never look normal since you caught it so late, but you should still end up getting a smokable harvest, which is more than many people can say.
December 8, 2023 at 12:48 pm in reply to: Has anyone any experience in using the ionboard s33 240w LED Grow Light from AC #3216CamZModeratorI would follow their recommendation. The only time I would deviate from that is if you are running co2 or if you’re not growing in a tent with reflective walls.
CamZModeratorThose aren’t pistils. They appear to be small leaves. Yes, that looks like a sign of an issue, though I can’t help without all the info necessary.
CamZModeratorWhat’s up! I grow rdwc myself. What you want to do with dwc is called “reading the res.” You basically take a sample and test ppm. If the ppm is higher than your initial input then you add water. If the ppm is lower than your initial input then you add more nutrients. It’s basically a numbers game. You want to decide what ppm you need to run based on plant size and where it’s at in the growth cycle. This is a huge variance between people and mainly depends on your environment and how comfortable you are with growing. With dwc less is more generally. Seedling 200-250ppm, early veg 400-600ppm, late veg 800, and 1000-1200ppm in flower is what I aim for personally, but I push my plants hard usually.
Inflow and runoff are for drain to waste. Dwc is constant submersion. There is no runoff. It’s essentially all inflow.
Without running a recirculating system, remember to change your res ever 10-14 days. Nutrient imbalances will occur and you’ll end up with tip burn or worse. Don’t worry, it’s easy once you get the hang of it.
One more thing. Know what ppm scale you are using. There are 3. Or skip all the shenanigans and switch to ec if you want.
CamZModeratorA potential solution might be to burry the stash blend under the blumat dripper. Only issue with that is it doesn’t spread well. Another solution would be to just sprinkle it on dry and then cover the top of your pot with cardboard directly on the soil and let mycelium and bacteria do the work for you.
December 1, 2023 at 5:19 pm in reply to: Home grower interested in helpful tips and tricks to improve grow. #3203CamZModeratorNice work. Take a look at this article from Mr Grow It. Looks like you might have this on 2 of your plants. Could also be zinc but unlikely. I hit you with a sub too. Good luck with the channel.
CamZModeratorYess, once you see the leaves return to a healthy green color you can turn your light up. Keep in mind that feeding is proportional to photosynthetic output. You can’t increase one without the other. You should always correct deficiencies before increasing light intensity.
CamZModeratorMagnesium and manganese are 2 different elements. Magnesium is used in many different metabolic processes throughout the plant. Manganese is also important in small amounts, but it is not nearly as crucial.
It seems like you are underfeeding. It specifically looks like you have iron deficiency. I suggest watering plain water and then feeding the next time and continuing this pattern (water/feed, water/feed, etc.), which should help prevent you from getting any lockout or toxcicity. You can either do calmag when you feed the nutrients or you can do it on the water only days. Most calmag also contains iron. You typically want to see about 15% runoff with synthetic nutrients. Regarding the brown/rust patches on the bottom canopy, that is normal for lower growth that isn’t getting enough light. The plant is reabsorbing the nutrients in those leaves.
CamZModeratorTds, ec, and ppm meters are usually not that technical. It sounds like a faulty design. They should use 2 metal electrodes and measure the electrical resistance between them when placed in a solution. I suggest getting a different meter. If the ph meter is from the same company I wouldn’t trust that either. You can buy calibration solution to check the accuracy of both and that is something I suggest you do no matter what. These devices drift over time and need to be recalibrated. After about a month you’d be surprised how inaccurate they are.
CamZModeratorLight could be an issue. 65 watts seems low. 120w per plant is pretty average so you should be better off with the new light. Not sure that’s the entire issue, but certainly worth the swap.
CamZModeratorI’m not Mr Grow It just FYI. Just someone he trusts as a moderator on here.
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