[CamZ]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>That is pretty interesting. I would like to see a plant tissue analysis for these compounds with consumables. Perhaps their molecular size is too large to be uptaken by the roots. Otherwise, they would be sequestered into plant tissue and ingested.</p>

[CamZ]

Every cultivar is different. I’m not sure how it happened either, just giving my opinion.

In my personal experience, nutrient burn happens more toward the top of the plant because it transpires more than the rest of the plant due to its proximity to the grow light.

Whats your ppfd?

[CamZ]

You had some irregular burning and natural senescence mixed together. His picture is more aligned with severe overfeeding or lockout.

[CamZ]

Disagree. This is abnormal and should not happen.

[CamZ]

I appreciate the kind words. I don’t believe they work in that way. I’m pretty sure they get stored in the plant cells once they are uptaken. Once in the cells they are utilized to form secondary metabolites.

Only fulvic acid is useful in foliar. Humic acid is too large to enter the leaves. Not sure if I answered your question correctly.

[CamZ]

Looks female to me. The elongation that comes to a point should eventually have 2 pistils shoot out of it. Males preflowers tend to be more round. Can’t 100% guarantee anything from the picture though.

[CamZ]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>That should be sufficient air exchange for a smaller plant. There are charts on air exchange if you want more specific information on intervals and cfm.</p>

[CamZ]

Nutrient burn and a lockout from the looks of it.

[CamZ]

Less likely, but yes. You can still overwater and cause root rot.

[CamZ]

So, chelating is the process of binding elements in order to increase their uptake potential and help stabilize them on a molecular level to prevent the formation of insolulable compounds. Humic and fulvic acids chelate by stabilizing ions to prevent the exchange of electrons between elements, thus keeping them in a solulable form rather than allowing them to form insolulable compounds. An easy example of this process is iron oxide. Iron oxide is insolulable in water. This means that a nonchelated iron put in water would react with the oxygen in the water to form iron oxide a.k.a. rust. There are further implications to this like the fact that iron oxide formation means that the potential hydrogen a.k.a. ph of the solution would then change. This becomes very important for liquid fertilizer because there are often several elements in solution that want to react with one another simultaneously. To prevent this, manufacturers have separate parts and sometimes compatible elements are bound together for stabilization, such as nitrogen and calcium, or sulfur and magnesium. It is possible to nano-chelate things like nitrogen by stabilizing its molecular structure during crystalization. Humic acid consists of larger particles, while fulvic acid contains smaller ones. As a chelating agent, fulvic acid is better due to its molecular size. It is small enough to be drawn in through the roots and leaves. Fulvic acid exists within humate and is extracted directly from it. Fulvic acid is essentially a more refined version of humic acid, where all larger particles are removed. Depending on your style of growing, humic acid may be acceptable, but fulvic acid is always okay, even in dwc. The issue with humic acid is that it’s too large, thus must be processed before its useful. This is a good thing in most situations because it gives bacteria and fungi something to break down, but in “dead res” hydro it can be insoluble. Idk if you have stash blend already, but it has humic acid already. If you want only fulvic then check out something like mr fulvic. Yes, humic and fulvic acid are both excellent chealators.

[CamZ]

If you are asking if plants can outgrow root rot then the answer is yes. It usually takes longer than most people are willing to deal with though. It can take weeks of recovery. If you remove the excess moisture the plant can grow new roots usually. Sometimes they will die, but I have personally recovered from rootrot many times. The grow I’m in right now, all of the plants in my tent had it because I failed to clean out my res in my veg tent because i was being lazy. It took me weeks to baby the plants back to health and I literally grow in water so the bacteria just kept coming back. It was my own fault, but I put those same plants in my flowering tent after treating the roots and they went from the size of my hand to 4ft tall in 3 weeks and have no deficiencies. The biggest thing you can do for root rot is let things dry out, even to the point that the plants get a little droopy, then give them a little water at a time until they have new growth. Rockwool should feel almost dry before you give them more water when they are small, and when you do give them water don’t saturate the cubes.

[CamZ]

Yes, major nutrients can be chelated and are avaliable if you want them. It’s far less important to due so though because they are the most abundant component in a given mix, whether synthetic or organic.

I doubt that it would be any stronger of a ph down than humic or fulvic acids and would not suggest using it for that due to expense of use.

[CamZ]

Do you have a picture of the whole plant?

[CamZ]

Ahh, I understand now. For silica it depends on the type of silica you use. If you use monosilicic acid then you need to add it less often, but if you use potassium silicate then it is most beneficial within 72 hours after you mix your stock solution.

Monosilicic acid is supposed to stay in solution without reacting with other components in your fertilizer. Monosilicic acid is great, but very expensive, and there are concerns about exactly how much more bioavalible it is to the plant. It doesn’t alter ph either, which could be good or bad depending on your viewpoint.

On the other hand there is potassium silicate, which is cheaper, but does alter ph. For me personally, I use potassium silicate for 2 reasons. The first I have already stated, it costs less. The second reason has to do with ph. I have found that if I mix potassium silicate in my solution with my dry nutrients I get a perfect ph between 5.8 and 6.3 without the addition of ph up or down. The solution also fluctuates far less than when its not added. No matter if I’m adding water only or a full mix batch of nutrients, I add a full 12.5ml of potassium silicate per 5 gallon bucket. The reason I add it every time has to do with its avalibility in solution. I want to maintain some in solution at all times. I add water roughly every 2-3 days, which just happens to be the best effective range for potassium silicate. I believe that it’s supposed to fall out of solution after this point, but I never see any precipitate in my solution personally, though I do run a live res.

Unless you have lab equipment to analyze your solution, there is no way accurately know what’s in it on a ppm level, which is why growers use overall ec and ppm readings for a general idea. Over time these elements get unbalanced as the plants use less of one nutrient than another. Elements periodically combine and form salts that are less solulable. Bacteria and enzymes can help keep these salts from building up in my opinion and experience, helping to keep nutrients in solulble form.

Mono and orthosilicic acid are great. I have had wonderful success with monosilicic acid. It creates very strong stems and thicker leaves without a doubt. Potassium silicate also does the same thing, though perhaps not quite as efficiently. What I can say is that running hydro without silica is a mistake. Flimsy weak stems suck. Not having pm and pest defense sucks. Who wouldn’t want better nutrient absorption and stress tolerance?

Once again, I hope you find this useful.

 

[CamZ]

I’m glad you found value in my response. One thing to make sure you focus on growing in all mediums is proper dryback. Every single medium has the potential to drown a seedling when oversaturated. Once they are moisture stressed it becomes very easy for them to become infected with pathogens, hence the root inoculant.

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