[rama777]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks for the info! When you built your lights with far red, did you have more in the spectrum than that first graph? The reason I ask is because in all other ways it’s the most attractive option. Efficiency is awesome, but going from HPS!? I’ll be happy with any LED!

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The main thing that concerned me was the far red, but I imagine that it only causes stretch when it gets to a certain percentage of the overall spectrum. I guess I need to research and see if I can uncover what that percentage is..

The other consideration is that I can get the light with far red bump closer to the canopy by 8” versus the last one, which you thought looked the best. So that may mitigate the negative effects of the additional stretch. But, for sure I’d love to find some research about how much more a plant actually stretches based on how much percentage of far red is added into the spectrum..

[rama777]

Can you say a bit more about why you think the first one has too much far red? What would be the cons of that?

[rama777]

Well there is one more actually, but it’s not a bar style light so I’m a bit on the fence about it since it would require more distance from the canopy. That being said, it’s the most overpowered light for the space so it may not have to be THAT much higher with the appropriate dimming.

[rama777]

[rama777]

[rama777]

Lol, not really.. I’m about a week away from harvest. I think the quality should be pretty decent for a first grow. I ended up with a lot of light stress and moderate foxtailing. I keep the HPS too close during mid flower but then for weeks after that I had it at 24”. Still problematic so I downloaded Photone and even at that distance they were getting blasted. Kind of surprising really. I ended up dimming it to 450 watts and capping my park at 900 at the most.

Lessons learned and maybe the biggest lesson? No more HPS in the tent..

[rama777]

I do need to heat the veg tent somehow. Kind of challenging managing an LED veg tent and an HPS flower tent in the same room! Switching to all LED after this first harvest in about a week.

I was thinking of just hanging a 100 watt incandescent bulb near the top of the tent, connected to an ACI UIS plus so I can automate it.

Any better idea?

 

[rama777]

Awesome, thanks for sharing. I didn’t know what to make of that myself. I mean I don’t just immediately believe anything anyone says, but his logic didn’t sound crazy so it did leave me questioning!

[rama777]

Awesome thanks!

I remember you had a guest on your show that was talking about a microscope being one of the best investments he made. You were running 7 gallons at that point I think, maybe it was 10. Anyways he said you probably didn’t actually have a lot of microbial life in pots that small.

What do you think about that assertion?

I guess I ask because I’m running 7 gallons and will continue to do so in the 3×3. Maybe I’ll try 10’s someday.

The metabolic factor is sound logic on its own, but even with me feeding organic inputs and inoculants, you think the microbes are really much of a factor? I’d love to believe they are :))

[rama777]

Makes sense. I’d rather have higher heat and lower VPD as well. In my situation, I have optimal VPD, but it just happens to be when the leaf temps are at 69-70 degrees. I could have the leaf temps at more like 74-75 degrees, but then my VPD would be more like 1.2-1.3

I’ve been choosing VPD over a warmer temperature but question which option would be superior.

Getting closer to veg I will be on track with optimal VPD and temps. It’s the seedling phase I wasn’t sure about.

[rama777]

You could taper the calmag down to near zero by harvest but like Mr. G said, both are needed to at least some degree until the end.

if you truly believe you are getting Calcium deficiency and it isn’t from a lockout, I wouldn’t cut it out personally..

I believe flushing nutrients only makes good sense if you have some kind of excess. I have very little to back that up. Either way, if you ARE out of calcium, certainly no reason to be flushing it out specifically right? Imagine a plant that had zero nitrogen by harvest. Would it taste awesome? Perhaps, but not really because you’d be harvesting a dead plant 😉

[rama777]

And specific ti my context, I can get .8-.9 VPD for my 10 day old seedlings at 69-70 degree surface temps. Or I can have it more like 1.1-1.2 VPD at 74-75 degree leaf temps. Which is superior? My guess is the higher VPD and temperatures would make for the biggest growth gains. But that’s just a guess.

[rama777]

2 plants would be weird in a 3×3 in my opinion. I would scrog em’ if so. 1 plant would be fine but then you have a much longer veg if you want to maximize your tent space. 3 plans is pretty good because it gives you some horizontal insurance in case on or two become monsters. But ultimately I think 4 is the perfect number if you manage them well.

[rama777]

Certainly take what I say with a grain of salt because I’m a rookie. I’m nearing harvest on my first grow.

If it were me I would think less about pot size and more about what kind of growth you want, how long you veg and both in relation to how many plants will fill your space within all those variables.

I did 4×7 gallon pots and will do so again. Technically I could do 4×10 gallon pots but that would give me less flexibility with adjusting their positions to optimize the space in-between them. Also I personally doubt that I would get much more activated biology between the two pot sizes with my style of growing. So it would just be more water and I doubt more yield unless I was growing fewer plants with a longer veg.

Stuff to think about anyways. That being said, if I were attached to 15 gallon pots, then I would either veg 1 plant for at minimum 10 weeks (training pretty hard probably) or I would do two plants and veg them for about 8-9 weeks, all depending on speed of growth and stretch.

[rama777]

I’ve got some burnt tips but not too bad. However I’m not certain if it’s from overfeeding or some light stress. I had my HPS too close for a while. The recommended distances are all over the map. I jacked it up to play it safe. Lex Blazer’s recommended lux for HID is profoundly lower than what 99% of people have said on the forums over the years. Rather confusing..

Anyways here’s the main question, if you get burnt tips from overfeeding, where does that show up on the plant? Top of canopy only? Fans only? Sugar leaves?

My burnt tips are 100% concentrated in the top 3-4” of the canopy. No burnt tips where there is less light.

 

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