[rama777]

Thanks! It’s gonna be so cold in the winter. Not too worried about temperature. Condensation might be an issue in the tent. Hopefully not.

[rama777]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I have the 69 pro</p>

[rama777]

Yep, these are going into 7 gallons tomorrow. I wanted to do it sooner but they took awhile to show up. My disease fear is just simply that I’ve struggled a lot this year on the farm with disease. I’m always on high alert and worry about accidentally bringing pathogens into the tent. I suppose I’ll try to be patient and see how these spots play out after transplanting. Hopefully they’re just simple growing pain blemishes!

[rama777]

Turns out my LST is equal to the ambient temps. I suspect that will rise when I switch to the higher wattage HPS.

[rama777]

Just subscribed so I can start paying you for your help here ;))

[rama777]

[rama777]

After looking at it under 50x (wish I had more powerful..), I’d say IF it’s a fungal disease, I’ve certainly caught it early enough to possibly nip it in the bud with a combination of copper, neem with baking soda and maybe another spray round of potassium bicarbonate. Also not totally ruling out the potential for it being a result of a too soon watering mistake.

I’ll go ahead and address the other two potential concerns, which appear to be unrelated to those dark spots. One is some beige spots, not too widespread. The other is the two color tones on a fair number of leaves. I suspect it’s either A) the beginnings of magnesium deficiency or B) symptoms of light to moderate overfeeding from using nutes twice now, which I’m going to pause on. Water is pH 6.3.6.6 or so, with lowest dose of calmag. One of the parents of these plants is Cinderella 99. Everyone including the breeder mentions that it is especially hungry for calmag, so maybe I need to bump it up, but I don’t want to rush to conclusions 😉

Thank you for your support!!

[rama777]

[rama777]

[rama777]

[rama777]

Not loving the looks of this. It’s on the same plant that had the fugly first true leaf. This is on the second set. I’m assuming that means it’s not a calcium deficiency. Hoping it’s not septoria leaf spot. Here’s an updated picture of that original first leaf. I went ahead and removed the first leaves on this and another plant, and sliced off the portion of the second leaf with these small dark spots, using alcohol in between each cut. Maybe it’s something else? I have a hepa filter on my intake fan. But, there is septoria leaf spot on my greenhouse tomatoes, as well as in the leaves of plenty of pioneer native annuals outside. Gonna start researching how to stop it from spreading if that’s what it is..

[rama777]

Interestingly, I just read that leaf surface temperatures will rise as humidity increases. So to get a good feel for the eventual HPS lst, I will need to take readings at the average flowering humidity levels, which for me will probably be around 40-45%

[rama777]

Day 27, plants are about 6-7” tall when the tops (6 per plant) are standing up after light training. Slightly over fed but not alarmingly so I don’t believe. No burnt tips. A few lightly hooked leaves and probably a bit dark on the maturing fan leaves. They’ll be transplanted into 7 gallon pots tomorrow. I’ll have an infra red gun to check the leaf surface temperatures soon. I’ll put them under the 600watt HPS for a day to record measurements of the lst throughout the day at different light to canopy distances to get a feel for how tall I hope to have them to finish at. This will help me to approximate a target height before flip.

In my context of a cold climate winter grow, in order to maintain a good temperature in the tent with the air cooled HPS, I’ll be constantly extracting and intaking a fair amount of air. I’m guessing that the intake air will be around 64 degrees on average. This will probably create some chaotic differences through the volume of the tent. This has me thinking that I should run my leaf temps at the tippy top of my canopy at a somewhat higher than optimal temperature in order to not have the soil become too cold. Is that sound logic? It seems to me that there has to be a sacrifice made at both the level of the soil and the canopy. Which one is the more important factor I wonder? There needs to be soooo many more scientific studies made on growing these plants :))

 

[rama777]

I’ve got an AC infinity in-line and exhaust, as well as two of their 6” oscillating fans, though currently only using one. Thanks for the heads up about the T3. That was the other one I was looking at. I’m also consider the ACI bigger humidifier, as I will need it for my lung room when I eventually get to the drying phase. I could place it outside the tent and use the tube to humidify inside the tent. There seems to be conflicting opinions about how well this works based on the bend in the tube and the water that collects inside of it. I imagine I could make it work for me somehow.

I think you are probably right about the overwatering. Thanks for enlightening me about that. I had accidentally watered 12-24 hours early. I was looking at the calendar after midnight and thoughtlessly got confused because the date had changed, but it was still about one night too early. Lesson learned. I’ll make sure to factor that in when I’m looking at my calendar.

My produce farm has a lot of fungal disease pressure due to too many hours at sub-optimal VPD. My climate is the total opposite of your! I had read a study that showed a correlation between higher brix and low VPD stress. How does brix in cannabis relate to terpenes and bud quality? I was thinking that in terms of various controlled stresses, if there were a positive correlation between terps and brix then if that study were accurate (only one study I saw about it..) then perhaps inducing a bit of low vpd stress in flower would be superior to high vpd stress. Of course mold has to be considered, but perhaps bursts of low vpd stress through until the mid-phase of flower could be beneficial?

[rama777]

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