[rama777]

For simplicity’ sake I’m going to continue putting in calmag with all my waterings. My strain is supposedly calmag hungry, whatever that means. Giving more details about ppm/ec would be nice but we’ll just have to go with “calmag hungry.” I was just mixing up some water and had a hunch that the EC with my calmag would be higher than I  was initially assuming. The bottle recommends 2-3 teaspoons per gallon in mature veg, which is where I’m at. I put 2.25 teaspoons into a gallon and sure enough the ppm was a bit over 400! That doesn’t leave me with as much overhead as I’d like for my nutrients. So, while I know you can’t tell me the exact perfect amount to use, does your experience give you an estimate of what a good target ppm might be for an allegedly calmag hungry plant that is going to be getting it with every watering (until much later maybe..) using RO? 100ppm with every watering, 200, 250, 400!?

Or, would you recommend doing medium to high doses of calmag and RO water only in between feedings so that I can be hitting them with full strength nutrients in between calmag only waterings?

Both are viable options I know. I’m leaning towards calmag with every watering though, and would be psyched to have someone just recommend me what ppm to roll with for every single water preparation I make. The plants aren’t super heavy feeders I don’t believe, so I think I’ll be okay to lose some overhead to the calmag. But, 400+ with every watering seems potentially excessive.

[rama777]

Well thanks, I appreciate the words and especially your insight! Eventually you’re gonna have to tell me to stop asking you questions everyday 😉

[rama777]

Well I watered 5% last night, all worried that it might be too early and lo and behold…they look great.

Two of the 4 plants were not ready for a drink yet so I didn’t water them. If I had, they would have probably needed more like a 2-3% watering. It would be nice for the sake of time efficiency to water all 4 pots at the same time but not the end of the world. Is it best practice to not water unless you have to add 5+% to the pots?

I have my pots on risers for airflow. I obviously don’t want the bottom of my pots to stay saturated, but I do somewhat worry that they will dry out unevenly with the airflow. That’s on me and I’m confident I will get the hang of watering soon enough. Until then, and with a consistent 1-1.45 VPD in my room (night and day fluctuations), how do you feel about risers for airflow vs sitting right on the floor? An important variable is probably the floor temperature, especially here in a climate of cold winters. I have 2” of rigid insulation under my tent so for me it should be mostly a question of airflow under the pots or no airflow.

[rama777]

That all makes sense. I’m actually not going to worry about it anymore because at this rate I’m honestly rather surprised at how short they have remained with the training. I was gonna flip at around 14” tall but they’ve stayed under 6”  tall for days now. Today marks 5 weeks from germination. I imagine I can only veg 4 plants in a 3×3 tent for so long before I’m asking for some kind of trouble! Probably gonna go for 2 more weeks before I flip.

[rama777]

Should I grab some yucca to use with my water now and again or is that kind of a waste of money?

[rama777]

Awesome. It’s a relatively new strain and I’ve only been able to track down one person who I could reach to ask about stretch. Their experience was a 2.66 stretch. I can see from his photo of it that it was 6 tops. So perhaps if I do end up with 12+ tops, then maybe the stretch will be less?

One thing I’ve been wondering about is how the new top growth will play out. I keep the main 6 tops forced down to bring up new shoots, but those new shoots start with small leaves and thin branches. Nevertheless they are starting to reach the same canopy height as the main tops. Once I stop training the mains down as much, by virtue of their mass, will they potentially begin to really outpace the newer/thinner tops coming off the main branches? Or will all the tops that are at canopy height more or less grow upwards at a relatively even pace?

I’ll include a picture of the person’s plant that had 6 canopy tops to see if you can make an educated guess as to wether or not mine might not stretch as much given the training I’m doing.

[rama777]

Cool thanks. They’ve been in the 7 gallon pots for 4 days and haven’t been watered again yet so it’s a bit early to say wether they’ve been “consistently moist.” In the 1 gallon pots, well that seems a bit more difficult to keep at the optimal moisture level for organics so those were mostly being watered on a wet/dry cycle. Now in the 7’s I will endeavor to maintain a relatively even moisture. I have a feeling the old soil where most of the roots are has become dry. I’ll give it a shot with a light watering tonight.

[rama777]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>There are several yellowing leaves. One of them is progressively yellowing pretty fast. I’m sure the plant isn’t about to just go yellow and die off or anything, but it would be cool to know why I’m seeing this. I lightly pre-moistened the soil in a bin before transplanting. My gut says it’s due to a bit of transplant shock or perhaps some inconsistent moisture in the new soil.</p>

[rama777]

Aside from when to flip, a more pressing matter right now is when to water again. I went from pots that were a small bit less than 1 gallon into the 7 gallon containers and watered them in with a 10% pot volume of water. About 25% of that was bottom watering. I kind of watered all around the surface relatively evenly.

I don’t believe the new soil will quite be dry enough to water tomorrow night, which will mark 4 days since transplanting. However, my intuition is that the 1 gallon mass of soil from the last pot will be ready tomorrow night. I was thinking about doing a 5% volume of watering, targeting the majority of the water throughout the last pot’s soil area. Does that sound like a good first watering after transplant method? It’s either that or go for more like 7% a day later.

 

[rama777]

I removed those fans because they were too close to the soil for watering. Can’t remember if this is from the same plant but one of them has a few leaves that are yellowing. Is it a potential nitrogen deficiency? Kind of surprising to see yellowing of leaves a few days after transplanting into fresh soil no?

[rama777]

When I got nervous about a potential disease, I clipped off the spots from the fan leaves to look at them closer under a microscope. I’d say all the first big fan leaves are starting to lose some color, but the ones I snipped are the most yellow. At 32 days old, is it just normal for them to start dying off like this or is it indicative of something else?

[rama777]

Peak height from the top of the fabric pots is like 5 inches, maaaybe 6 inches with one leaf sticking up! Still have another 7-8 inches of vertical growth before flipping and allowing for a triple stretch. From the beginning I have been expecting to flip at 6.5 weeks, which is exactly 2 weeks from now. I’d say that’s looking pretty accurate if they basically double in height in the next 14 days.

[rama777]

I don’t want the flowers jamming into each other and creating bud rot. Not sure if I should push 20+ tops or if I should prune down to 12-16 at some point.

Also not sure about a support method yet. I could use screens but I’d like to avoid them on my first grow if possible. Chris I watched some of your patreon videos and saw some examples of pots with stakes around the edges. Might these be a good candidate for that method? Any other support suggestions besides screens and stakes to consider?

[rama777]

[rama777]

I was going to go for 6 tops and flip at around 20” for a 2x stretch but I’m being told I would be wise to plan for a 3x stretch to be safe. So I started tying them down pretty aggressively. Instead I’ll shoot for 16-20 tops or whatever springs up. Unless in a 3×3 that is I’ll advised for any reason. Does this look like I’m on the right track?

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