[rama777]

Gonna stack two more questions with the above..

I’m not concerned or anything, just hoping to learn how to read the “symptoms,” understanding that some will be nothing and some will actually be a call to action.

I read deeper into VPD and did not realize that the leaf temperature was the thing to go by as opposed to the ambient air. Makes perfect sense. I am going to order a infra red gun to see what my lst is. I wen ahead and adjusted the offset up by 3 degrees in the ACInfinity app. This being an HID grow, I understand now that lst will be higher due to wasted radiant energy from the light source. So my VPD with lights on is somewhere on the order 1.6-1.9 I think. Will confirm when I get the temp gun. I’m not panicking or anything, but if I can dial that in more, all the better.

I can’t bring temps down. They’re around 75-77 degrees in the tent at all times. With lights off the VPD becomes ideal. So my only option during lights on is to add humidity. I’m not going to do that in the lung room until it gets colder here in the winter. At that point I wouldn’t mind supplementing the lung room if need be because the central heat lowers humidity beyond our living comfort zone anyhow. But for now it would have to be a humidifier in the tent. If I get one, it would have to be placed dead center on the floor, and it would also have to be small. I’m looking at a 4L smart Levoit in potential.

A couple things holding me back. One, it will be kicking out its mist straight up and centered in the room, so pointed straight at the glass of my air cooled hood. I have an oscillating fan on at all times, so I don’t know if that would negate condensation buildup on the glass? If so, check.

Possible issue number two, depending obviously on the heat from the HID light, I have to extract pretty heavily most of the time to keep the temps where I need them. So I’m thinking the added humidity from the 4L humidifier might just get constantly sucked out and do practically nothing? If I turn the exhaust down, temps go up and then I’d be left chasing after higher humidity than I want or could even maintain.

So it boils down to knowing wether or not a small humidifier can bring humidity up by at least 5% with high extraction. If not, the variables will never line up. And if that’s the case, so be it. Dialing in VPD will be easier in flower which I’m assuming is ultimately more important than during veg. Thoughts?

Lastly, my first true leaves are starting the process of dying. No biggies, just curious if this is a total normal and healthy looking pattern of die off? Thank you!!!

[rama777]

Is this trying to tell me anything important?

[rama777]

I bit the bullet and did a half strength feed last night. We’ll see how it goes. If it turns out to be detrimental, would I see symptoms within 2-3 days?

[rama777]

And here’s what’s in my soil, also from the same company. The only thing that strikes me as readily available is the blood meal and guano.

[rama777]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I pH’d it down to 6.5 with phosphoric acid. The company that I got my soil and nutrients said anywhere between 5.8 and 7 will be fine. Pretty easy there. I’m just gonna by their guidelines, which is to feed twice weekly. According to them, I should start feeding now. I’m hesitant about that so far. I haven’t used any yet. Once they go into 7 gallons, I’ll consult with them again about wether or not to keep feeding (if I start by then), or to back off since the roots will be finding fresh nutrients for a while. Take a look at what’s in my veg nutes and see if you see any good reason to start feeding now. If these are all things that need microbiology to effectively break down to become available, I could see why starting now might make sense. If there’s nothing that will be relatively quick release, then I assume it would be better to start now then wait until a potential deficiency arises.</p>
 

 

[rama777]

Man, I really appreciate you. All is pretty well. Looking forward to having fewer and fewer questions and anxieties as I learn this plant..

[rama777]

Perhaps I should mention that starting a week ago I was manually bending the tops down to get light to the lower shoots. I did that for a few days before deciding that I wanted faster top growth right now since the next move is topping the plants.

[rama777]

[rama777]

I’m on day 18 now, seeing exceptional growth overall. I have 4 in Coast of Maine’s Stonington Blend and 4 in Terrabiotics soil. The former are smaller and the latter are bigger. Both are equally as healthy I’d say, but definitely faster growth in the terrabiotics.

Going to top 5 of them today or tomorrow and cull the slower 3.

There is one plant with more stress signs. I’m not hugely concerned but it would be nice if I could know what the symptoms are telling me..

Light on temps have been between 74-80 at the canopy. Night cycle between 69-74. Humidity between 45-65, with 60 being average. 400 watt MH was as low as 20” but I’ve bumped that up to 25” as most of the plants have shown some light blistering consistent with the seedlings in this original post. I think that’s what it is anyway. Just some yellow to whitish blistering. Nothing crazy.

A few have one or two leaves with downward curls, with this one plant in the photo having both up and down curl on the same fan leaf. This happened after the last watering two days ago. It is possible that I watered a tad too late, unlikely early. Runoff water on all the plants was on the order of a single ounce or less. I wouldn’t call that excessive by any means. Just right I think.

Watered a bit too late? Plants adjusting to the nutrients in the new soil (over a week since transplant though)? Heat stress?

And then this same plant has a burnt tip at one of the newer nodes (no other burnt tips on the plant) and some blistering and distortion on another portion of the same leaf. I cannot say with any certainty but I had the metal probe of the acinfinity sensor sitting on the top of one of the plants for a day. Could have been this one but I have no idea. Can the metal probe burn leaves on extended contact? I just now noticed this same blistering and slight deformation on another plant, same node. Intuition and hope is that it was from lights too close. Probable and plausible theory? Thank you anyone, and especially you Chris!

[rama777]

Thanks man, I really appreciate it!

[rama777]

Sorry one last comment even though I’m sure you understand my confusion 😉

On a particular grow that I’m looking to possibly mimic, he tops above the third node, in his words. However, I am certain it’s actually the 4th node, and then when he does his first bottom cleanup he cuts the first true leaves and the shoots from that 1st node. I can see that with his strain, the first node shoots are not vigorous like mine, so it totally makes sense. At this point my 1st node shoots appear to be rather solid. So either I’ll be keeping them as tops based on my strain, or someone will educate me that the first node shoots are never main top keepers?

[rama777]

[rama777]

I’m reading a lot and looking at different grows to help me decide where I want to top. I’m leaning towards topping above the 4th node. That will create 8 main tops correct?

Sounds logical enough. But where I’m hung up is wether or not I should count the first true leaf as the 1st node, or if that gets skipped over? And when I say first true leaf, we’re referring to the one that lacks the multiple tips, but is still the first serrated leaf, just directly above the cotyledon? I am a farmer for god’s sake. Technically I know it’s the 1st true leaf, but I’m just making sure that holds true in the cannabis world.

I saw a skilled grower who actually trimmed off the branches that were growing from the first true leaf node. Is that common practice? My first node branches are looking pretty solid. It’s hard to imagine that I would trim them off. So really the question boils down to wether or not the first true node shoots are typically keepers/main tops, or if they get sometimes get removed for some reason.

[rama777]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Cool thanks. I’m trialing Coast of Maine and Terrabiotics soil. Both should have adequate food for 30 days now that you mention it, plus they’ll be transplanted again in the not too distant future.</p>
Planning to top them in about 3-5 days, then transplant them into 5 gallon pots a few days after that.

After that I’m estimating another 21-25 days of veg, flipping to flower when they’re somewhere around 48-54 days old. But we’ll see how growth goes since I need to keep 4 plants reasonable in a 3×3!

[rama777]

Day 15. Ready for their first feeding?  I’m about 2 days away from their second watering after transplanting. So it’s either start the nutrients in two days from now or start them in another 6 days from now.

Also, because I’m growing four plants in a square tent and I suffer from some back pain, I’m thinking about not using a scrog screen. If I were growing only two plants I probably would try it.

With more hands on time spent with LST, can I achieve more or less the same canopy control as I would with a net? I realize tops might sag eventually, in which case I could call in the yo-yo clip troops when needed.

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