[mrgrowit]

Your question: “Is it possible that they are cured since I had a longer dry time or am I just kidding myself?”
Answer: According to some recent studies done on the drying process, a drying environment with stable conditions (temperature & humidity) allow enzymatic processes to happen more consistently than a drying environment where the temperature and humidity fluctuates. Their test results showed less chlorophyll present in the drying environment with stable conditions. I believe the test was done using a Cannatrol for drying vs drying a grow tent. My source is a rep at Cannatrol. I just emailed him to see if he has more info on it. So it really comes down to the stability of the dry if it is cured by now or not.

Your question: “At what point should I start thinking about adding a humidity pack for longer term storage?”
Answer: I agree with @CamZ – “When you see a dip in humidity in the jar of 1-2% below 62% when the jar is closed.” I will add that some people wait until 58% RH before they add it in.

[mrgrowit]

I like yucca for hydrophobic soil. Some might say it’s an overkill for your scenario. Either way it’s optional; you can totally get through the grow successfully without it.

[mrgrowit]

How much training and how you train will depend on which branches dominate. You could easily force down the main 6 and other grow up and be the dominate branches.

Really hard to tell you how much stretch you’ll get since there are so many variables. I could sit here and guess and say since you have more tops your plant will most likely stretch less, but then your plant could end up stretching more due to different pheno and/or better grow conditions. So it’s not really cut and dry as for how much stretch you’ll get.

[mrgrowit]

Yes it looks like you’re on the right track with the training. Keep in mind that the amount of stretch you get not only depends on genetics but many other factors as well such as environment conditions, nutrition, and even training. In general, the more tops you have the less stretch you will get. So if you do go with 20+ tops, they most likely won’t stretch as much as the 12-16 tops you’re also considering. Yes stakes could be beneficial in your case IMO. Depending on how much stretch you get and the thickness of the branches, you might not need any support at all. But if you do need to support the branches and don’t want to use a trellis net, stakes are an option.

Sounds like you gave a appropriate amount of water to begin (10%) and the 5% for second watering also sounds appropriate.

[mrgrowit]

Has the moisture content been consistent in the grow pots? If they dry out, microbes can go dormant and the organic matter breakdown will slow down or even stop. That can certainly result in the plant not being able to absorb the nutrients it needs. Those fabric pots do have benefits but with organics it can be challenging since they can dry out from all sides. The yellowing could be from either a lack of nutrition (my guess is your fresh soil has the nutrients, it just needs to stay moist), or often times the lower leaves that aren’t receiving light will die off.

[mrgrowit]

Hey thanks so much for your positive words! Do you have more info on your grow and some pics?

[mrgrowit]

Your question: “Would under watering affect the nutrient uptake toward the sides of the fabric pot that was always dried out?”
Answer: Dried out soil could absolutely negatively impact nutrient uptake. When the soil is dry, microbes go dormant. When they are dormant, they aren’t actively breaking down organic matter converting it into a form that the plant can uptake.

Your question: “Maybe the middle of the pot was depleted of nutrients from veg and the outer portion of the pot was to dry to contribute?”
Answer: Interesting thought but it’s pretty much impossible to say for sure the middle of the pot was depleted vs the outer sides of the pot.

Your question: “Replaced the old RO with a six stage mid grow. Possible issue?”
Answer: I agree with what @CamZ says in the post above me. To add to that, if you add minerals back into the RO with that 6th stage filter, you may need to adjust the ratio/dosage of the other fertilizer you add in. For example, the 6th stage filter you have says it adds back in calcium, magnesium, and potassium ions. Therefore, you should be cautious when adding in additional inputs that have those elements in them since too much of one element can inhibit the uptake of other elements. Keep in mind that this is general guidance and I’m sure many people have the 6th stage RO and ignore what I just mentioned and their plants turn out fine lol. So I guess it comes down to how much you want to gamble haha… You mentioned on 10/26 you were going to feed; what fertilizer did you use?

[mrgrowit]

Thanks for the support on Patreon! Which AC Infinity controller do you have? I ask because some of them allow you to set by VPD, so your fan could kick on according to that instead. Or, if humidity is too high, or temp too high. Lots of flexibility with that controller. Also the humidifier will connect to the newer controller; not sure if the older one can.

I’ve heard of the tube on the humidifier causing issues too. I personally don’t use it.

Your question: “How does brix in cannabis relate to terpenes and bud quality? … perhaps bursts of low vpd stress through until the mid-phase of flower could be beneficial?”
Answer: I’m not aware of any studies to back up that. All I hear is anecdotal evidence.

Are these the same plants being transplanted into 7-gallon grow pots soon or are those different plants? If they are being transplanted soon, the larger grow pot with fresh nutrients may be all it needs to bounce back.

[mrgrowit]

If the leaf surface temperature is optimal then most likely the soil temp is fine. Even though you’re bringing in 64°F air, you’ll be surprised by how the heat generated from the grow lights can keep the space warm.

[mrgrowit]

Beautiful picture with the cover crops! Yes you can try to rehydrate and calibrate the pH meter but there is a high likelihood that the probe is no longer good. Without the pH measurement, we don’t know if the medium is in the acceptable range for nutrient uptake. If the pH in the medium is too high or too low, you could get nutrient lockout and see deficiencies. Without the PPM measurement, we are also just guessing what the problem could be. It could be too low of PPM indicating it needs a feeding, or too high of PPM causing a nutrient lockout. So it’s really hard for me to suggest something for you at this point when we really haven’t figured out what is causing the problem. If I had to guess without pH or PPM measurements, I’d think it was a lack of nutrition in the medium since all plants are impacted and all are yellowing all over. I wish I could give you a better answer.

[mrgrowit]

Well the plants look to be yellowing all over which makes me rule out light burn. The Sohum soil should get you through the entire grow without any additional feedings. How long did you Veg for? Maybe a long veg period and now in flower they are out of nutrients? Are you able to get a pH or EC/PPM measurement? I know it’s not routine to do those measurements when growing with organic inputs but that info can be helpful if there are problems.

Light distance, temp, and RH look fine. You mention no water in over a week; Are you keeping the medium moist at all times or doing drybacks between waterings?

[mrgrowit]

I highly recommend the AC Infinity humidifier (discount code: MRGROWIT15) over the Levoit smart humidifier. Not only is the AC Infinity humidifier priced lower, but it is able to dial in RH way better than the Levoit one can. I actually stopped using the Levoit humidifier.

Which inline fan are you using right now? Does it have a variable speed controller? Also, is it on a timer? Hard to tell you for sure if the humidifier will sufficiently increase the RH if you’re constantly exhausting air from the grow space.

That damage on the lower leaf resembles beginning symptoms of over-watering imo. Basically it’s a lack of oxygen in the root zone and the leaves on the lower part of the plant suffer first. Again, are you tell you for sure that’s what it is, but it sure resembles it. Letting the soil dry out a bit more between waterings should eliminate that from getting worse.

In regards to what you mention about easier to control RH in flower, it can be. The bigger the plant the more water vaper will enter into the air via respiration.

[mrgrowit]

Looking good! Nice job

[mrgrowit]

Yes 2-4 days you may see burnt tips or leaves become much darker and/or shiny if it ends up being a problem.

[mrgrowit]

Hey @jd187 those are both male plants – not hermaphrodites. All generations are regular seeds so they can be either male or female. Are the other 2 you mentioned you have confirmed females?

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