[jaymoney]

I would absolutely reuse it:

get a 37 gallon tote from home depot for $10.00

put the root ball in there and chop it up with a shovel

remove the large pieces/roots

repot and water with your normal nutrient solution

use a lower PH of 5.5 (more acidic dissolves participated minerals)  until the runoff matches your input nutrients and your ready to plant

this takes the same about of time as tossing it in the trash and in the mean time you can store other things in the tote (buckets/measuring cups) etc… its a win win

[jaymoney]

right on!  that makes sense, for thrips ive had great success with spinosad , diatomaceous earth has never worked for me for nothin lol.

1. spinosad for thrips and mites.
2. mosquito bits for fungus gnats and fruit flies
3. 1% organic milk spray for PM

these get the job done brother… best wishes!

[jaymoney]

No definitely not a hermie. but possible a case of PM on the fist pick , might want to double check you environmentals

[jaymoney]

Purple color is anthocyanin, and it’s produced by the plant when it needs to grow quickly. Essentially, it increases the flexibility of the plant stem. You’ll also see purpling during late flower or in cold temperatures. This is due to the oils on the plant — similar to putting olive oil in the refrigerator, where it thickens or gels up. The same thing happens to a plant covered in resins or “grease.”

To prevent this plant produces the purple color because it’s more flexible and less likely to crack during shrinkage and expansion. So, a purple stem could just be a sign of rapid growth or environmental stress, like cold.

I’ve taken a green stem before and bent it back and forth a few times — it turned completely purple, just from the stress. So that’s what I think is going on here.

Some people say it’s a magnesium or phosphorus deficiency, but in my opinion, those would show up on the leaves first then the stem, both showing at the same time

[jaymoney]

Greetings,

After reviewing everything, here’s what I believe is happening: the additional calcium and magnesium are causing the issue. Let me explain.

Potassium and calcium should be in a 1:1 ratio. Canna A/B already balances this. If you add more calcium or magnesium, it throws off the balance of water regulation. Calcium is immobile and typically shows up as deformation in new growth — not twisting edges,  Your new growth looks fine.

What you’re seeing is serrated edges curling, which is a sign of potassium imbalance. What else shows up with further potassium deficiency? Yellowing along the leaf margins, further and it will show up as necrosis

calcium and magnesium levels are too high. These are positively charged cations and they compete with potassium for uptake in the root zone.

Too much calcium results in potassium deficiency, which prevents water from reaching the edges of the leaves — they dry out and curl.

My suggestion:

#1  Stop adding calcium and magnesium

#2  Increase your total EC to 1.5 using Canna A/B — and add a micro nutrient that includes boron regular dose

#3  Lower PH to 5.8 ( coco and perlite is a highly aerated low CEC media )(PRO TIP!) more air lower CEC lower ph needed, less air higher CEC higher ph needed

#4  Lower watering to 10% runoff. Heavy runoff strips beneficial microbes (which exist in all plants, regardless of media)

#5 Raise your lights as high as possible and increase the intensity to 15,000 Lux. This will give you more even light distribution.

let me know if you have any questions! there’s always more to learn lol

[Author]

Posts