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- This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 5 days, 14 hours ago by carlito.
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January 24, 2025 at 10:30 am #4795carlitoParticipant
I apologize if this post inquiry duplicates others, but I couldn’t find any that came close to the questions I have. I plan to grow four different strains of auto flower from 420 Fast Buds seeds (White Widow, Gorilla Cookies, Guava and Jack Herer — most are listed as “beginner” strains) this coming spring/summer in Minnesota which recently legalized cannabis growing. I have spent countless hours researching my approach (including Chris’s books) and have some very basic plans formulated.
First, I want to grow outdoors on my patio since I don’t need much product (if I end up with one or two ounces per plant, I’ll consider my project to be wildly successful). I’ve grown tomatoes on my patio for years with great success, so I feel the location will have plenty of necessary sunlight with the patio facing east. I plan to grow in fabric bags that are tan colored (I may have to place them into larger light colored containers to avoid frying the roots) and using Foxfarm Ocean Forest potting soil mixed in equal parts with their Happy Frog potting soil, placing germinated seeds into a space of about the size of a cup or two of just Happy Frog soil.
From my understanding of various sources, you don’t want to burn the seedlings which is why I’m placing them into Happy Frog mix and then letting the roots grow into the 50/50 mix. I feel that the 50/50 mix may be better for auto flowers since some of the Ocean Forest higher concentrations of nutrients will be diluted out and the Happy Frog will provide some microbial additions.
One of the things I heard Chris say is that (any maybe I’m taking it out of context) growing autos in containers using an organic approach is challenging. On the other hand, I’ve heard from numerous sources that if you can grow tomatoes, you can grow cannabis. If Chris is right, what should I do to improve my odds?
I’ve also understood from Chris that you probably don’t need any additional nutrients until about week 3 – 4 when the plant burns through the existing soil nutrients. If I want to continue down the organic path, what suggestions do people have about additional nutrients/microbial additions, etc? Are teas preferable to surface feeding?
I don’t know anyone who has grown outdoors and, given my low level of consumption, it makes no sense for me to make a steep investment into an indoor grow. I want to make things as easy as possible, but also as organic as possible. Maybe that’s a contradiction in terms.
Thanks for any help on my project and a big thanks to Chris for all his work in helping people like me in so many ways.
January 26, 2025 at 10:22 pm #4801SilenttipParticipantHi and welcome 🤗. First off you could use the 50/50 mix to delute the amount of nutrients wile in the seedling stage or you can place the seed in pucks first. I prefer the pucks since the seeds has enough nutrients in them for the first week or two. When roots grows out of the pucks then place them in the FFOF. Place them directly into its final container, no need to up pot. It will have enough nutrients in it to carry you the first month then you will need to top dress with which ever organic nutrient you decide on. With it being auto flowers, pay attention to when it goes into flower and adjust your top dressed accordingly. Dont over think it just stick to the basics and you’ll be fine. Hope that helps
January 28, 2025 at 7:12 am #4803carlitoParticipantThank you, Silenttip.
January 30, 2025 at 4:45 pm #4818mrgrowitKeymasterWelcome to the forum!
To clarify, when you said, “One of the things I heard Chris say is that (any maybe I’m taking it out of context) growing autos in containers using an organic approach is challenging. On the other hand, I’ve heard from numerous sources that if you can grow tomatoes, you can grow cannabis. If Chris is right, what should I do to improve my odds?”
What I meant by that is autoflowers in small containers with organic inputs can be challenging. If growing autos outdoors, you may want to do a 7-gallon container or larger. I agree; if you can grow tomatoes, you should be able to grow cannabis 🙂You also said, “I’ve also understood from Chris that you probably don’t need any additional nutrients until about week 3 – 4 when the plant burns through the existing soil nutrients. If I want to continue down the organic path, what suggestions do people have about additional nutrients/microbial additions, etc? Are teas preferable to surface feeding?”
Check out BuildASoil Craft Blend. It’s an all-in-one organic fertilizer so you can get away with using that as your only input. An alternative fertilizer is KIS Organics Nurtient Pack. I’ve used both of those for years now with success. To increase your odds of success, add in worm castings. Sure, a microbial inoculant or even brewing a compost tea can definitely be beneficial to boost up the microbe population in the soil. Stash Blend is also another additive you could use which has silica, humic acid, beneficial bacteria and fungi, and a 2-1-5 NPK.To sum it up, you could keep it simple by using BuildASoil Craft Blend only, but add in worm castings and Stash Blend in addition to that for better results.
January 30, 2025 at 8:03 pm #4821carlitoParticipantThank you, Chris!
Well, I thought I’d done plenty of research when I posted and then, shortly afterward, I stumbled onto a couple of videos of Jeramy Silva describing his work with Earthboxes and I felt like I’d found my process. With a larger soil volume, I think this will take me in the direction you suggested. While the Earthbox doesn’t have the air exchange of fabric containers, it has the benefit of keeping the soil at (supposedly) the right level of moistness. Jeramy’s instruction on using the Earthbox have been bookmarked. I’ll still attempt to grow in the fabric containers as well (I wonder if there could be a wicking system developed for these?).
Some burning questions remain. I’ve used containers with water reservoirs but no wicking system to grow tomatoes and love them. The tomato’s roots grow down into the water in the reservoir and uptake the water, huge volumes in the heat of summer. But, it sounds like this isn’t the case for cannabis and the roots are stopped in their tracks when they encounter the bottom of the grow space? Does that area between the water and the plastic grid act as an air exchange for the soil and roots? I had considered maybe modifying the Earthbox by placing some similar material found in the fabric containers as windows in the Earthbox, but do you feel that the air space above the reservoir is sufficient?
I used to do immunology research when I was young and I greatly appreciate your willingness to dive into the depths of cannabis growing — research can really be fun!
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