[mrgrowit]

Your question: “Git some silica today. Do you have any recommendation on how much to use and how often? Is it cool to mix it with calmag?”
Answer: Full dose or some prefer a half dose. Mix silica in water first, then CalMag.

Your question: “How much do you think would be a good amount to bottom water them to moisten the bottom couple of inches of soil?”
Answer: I’d do 5% and see how it goes. If it absorbs up quickly then another 5% may be good.

Your question: If I decide to do a runoff test, I guess to do that I should let the pots dry out “completely” and water until runoff? Basically break the living soil rule once to get a runoff reading? Is that best done when not adding nutrients during a watering?
Answer: Most growers using organic inputs will only do a runoff test if they are seeing problems. You don’t need to let it dry out. Just run water through and collect. Alternatively, you could do a slurry test instead.

I personally haven’t used Agsil so I don’t have any guidance for you there. I recommend reaching out to KIS Organics with that question since they sell that product.

[mrgrowit]

Hard to tell you for sure since the growth rate is impacted by many things within the grow and the genetics. Many people will add the net late in veg right before flipping to flower and then the first weeks into flower it grows into the SCROG nicely during the stretch phase. Other people will add the net in the beginning weeks of flower.

I’ve continued to bend branches into the net for the first 7-14 days of flower and unfortunately they didn’t stretch up beyond the net after that and I wasn’t happy with the result. So it can be a gamble.

[mrgrowit]

Possibly in 2024 but it’s not confirmed. I’m working on a different project right now.

[mrgrowit]

Hey! The audio book is complete within the audio files alone. It’s actually not possible to include PDF files with the audio book on Audible. The cheat sheets are spoken word-for-word in the audio book so people are simply writing them down if they want to.

[mrgrowit]

Well many brands of CalMag actually have some Nitrogen in it as well. So that’s what could be darkening the leaves in the scenario I was mentioning.

The only way you can know for sure is tissue and soil testing, which isn’t feasible for many due to cost. So the cheaper route is to check the EC/PPM of the runoff to get a general idea of the amount of nutrients in the medium and then make adjustments from there. Some prefer a slurry test instead. Also, some growers are against runoff measurements for one reason or another but imo it’s better to have and use that measurement than nothing at all.

[mrgrowit]

You filled up that space nicely 👏

[mrgrowit]

Coming along beautifully! 👏

[mrgrowit]

Congrats on getting to harvest! Sounds like your drying environment will work well.

[mrgrowit]

You bring up a dilemma that isn’t well clarified in the book. Like @CamZ , I also would use a string to pull the branch over to the side as much as possible. If it was in late veg I’d top the plant (even if it’s an autoflower) in order to help control the height. Yes it would harm the plant by slowing down the growth and could result in less yield, but it would prevent this issue. Other growers may go a different path. Has the plant stopped stretching now?

[mrgrowit]

Is the 900PPM what you are putting into the medium each feeding or is that the runoff measurement? I completely agree with @CamZ reply above.

[mrgrowit]

Sorry for the delayed response as the past few weeks has been hectic. Your plants look great!

General recommendations for HPS, MH, and CMH light distance are as follows:
Seedlings, clones, mother plants: 24″-36″
Veg stage: 18″-24″
Flower stage: 12″-18″
Environment conditions, nutrition, and genetics will influence the amount of light can absorb so that’s why there are ranges.

I’m sure once you do that pruning, you’ll find thin branches that are lagging behind that you’ll end up removing. If you’re trying to max yield and ensure the plants get the support needed in flower, then a trellis net is an excellent option.

[mrgrowit]

Sorry for the delayed response as the past few weeks has been hectic. I can’t recall what the PPM is of just one full dose of CalMag in 1 gallon of water. If I had to guess, I’d say it’s around 250, and can vary depending on the brand. Some growers feed CalMag every watering while others do it only between feedings of base nutrients. Yes, if you “read the plants” and think they could do with a water-only once or twice, go for it. I personally do this once I see the leaves on the verge of becoming too dark.

[mrgrowit]

70/55 is a little off from what it says in the Cannatrol User Manual. In there it recommends:

1. 4 days of drying at 68°F temperature and 54 dew point (61% RH)
2. Then a 4-day cure cycle at 68°F temperature and 52 dew point (57% RH)
3. Then for storage, they go back to 68°F temperature and 54 dew point (61% RH)

I’ve been told there are studies being done by an independent 3rd party comparing 60/60 vs their recommended settings. So we shall see the results soon.

Yes @CamZ you’re right, I meant add Boveda packs into the jars below that threshold.
I completely agree with everything he said in the last reply. Dude knows his stuff!

[mrgrowit]

Got it. Sorry to give such an advanced reply there. For the record, the Cannatrol rep replied and said that study isn’t released yet so we shall wait and see.

Taking a step back and giving a more general answer, in your case I personally would add in the Boveda packs into the jars that are at 58%. In my experience, smoking right after dry (no matter if it was a 5 day or up-to 14 day dry), I can still taste what many refer to as a “chlorophyll taste.” The absolute earliest I will smoke the buds are 2 weeks after dry. At that point I almost always still encounter that chlorophyll taste. When I have a stash, I wait 30 days after dry and by then that chlorophyll taste is always gone.

Hope that helps.

[mrgrowit]

Your question: “Is it best practice to not water unless you have to add 5+% to the pots?”
Answer: That’s debatable. In general, when growing with organic inputs, it’s good to keep a consistent moisture level. Depending on the size of the container and size of the plant, someone could go in and add in a small amount of water every day and maintain that optimal moisture level. Others may need to wait a day or two. I like the 5% rule, which is, if you think water needs to be added but not sure how much, add in 5% of the size of the container. See how the plants react, and then if you need to add more the next day, add another 5%. Some people do 10% instead. There are so many different ways to go about it.

Your question: “how do you feel about risers for airflow vs sitting right on the floor?”
Answer: First, I really admire your detailed approach; You ask some great questions that I’ve never heard anyone ask before. To answer this question, I must admit that I’ve never heard of someone using risers specifically to increase airflow across the bottom of the fabric container. Risers are mostly used to bring the plants up off the floor (which may be too cold and stunt growth), or to help ensure plants aren’t sitting in runoff water. I’m not sure how much of an impact the airflow will have across the bottom of the grow pot to be honest. I imagine not much of a difference (if any) seeing how you are attempting to keep the moisture level in the medium consistent.

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